Preen
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 6, 2007
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
With Luella Bartley and Matthew Williamson electing to stay home this season, it fell to Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen to fly the British flag in New York. A sudden swell of buzz accompanied their ten-year-old label's stateside debut (having Agyness Deyn, already this week's unofficial mascot, in your corner will do that). If today's show didn't blow away those expectations, it offered more than enough reason to extend the brand's visa.Each Preen collection exists within the context of the one before. "Where we left off with last is where we start," Thornton told Style.com. "It's always a journey for me and Thea." So last season's fixation on the eighties aggressions of Claude Montana or, if you prefer, Thierry Mugler (neon-pinks and new-wave zippers and pleats like the exoskeleton of an insect) softened into shiny satin wraps, parachute pants, and lace bodysuits—call it Versace territory.
Graphic body-con silhouettes alternated with slouchy sensual ones; silks mingled with suedes; and everything was worked up in a Saint-Tropez palette of sand, blue, olive, lilac, orange, and white. The active-sport touches—drawstrings and anoraks—looked especially good. What Thornton and Bregazzi do best is a mash-up of classics: silk blouses, trousers, and bathing suits, like the showstopper worn by Anja Rubik. Next stop, L.A.?
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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