Three days old now, this reshuffled fashion week has gotten off to a less-than-inspired start. But leave it to Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough to pump some blood into the proceedings. Their new silhouette is decidedly body-conscious: With cinched belts everywhere and just one pair of pants on the runway at tonight's venue, the Park Avenue Armory, Spring is all about the waist and the legs—the longer the better.

The show began with a short black dress topped off by both a hemp waistcoat and a second, more abbreviated vest. Following on were a number of looks with a vaguely military air, complete with cavalry hats by fashion's new favorite milliner, Albertus Swanepoel. From there, the clothes took on a more tribal feel. Black-and-white striped jackets were layered over shirtdresses and long-sleeved tees, and the bodice of one dress was beaded in a zebra pattern. Altogether, things were less posh and more street than last season, and, for that reason, the collection seemed truer to the duo's own personal style.

Hernandez and McCollough said they wanted to explore the idea of contrasts, "something organic and man-made, primitive and refined." And thanks to the fact that Valentino Fashion Group bought a 45 percent stake in the company in July, Proenza Schouler can afford to really up the ante on the refinement front. The gold-leaf silk pieces that closed the parade—Liya Kebede's double-breasted sleeveless coat-dress was the best—are as luxe as it gets, and will no doubt require a socialite's or celebrity's hefty wallet. Demi Moore swooped out after the show with, count them, four bodyguards in tow. The boys should ask to borrow a couple of those: There are going to be plenty of eager ladies elbowing to wear these clothes.