Peter Som
NEW YORK, September 9, 2007
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
It has been an exciting few weeks for this 36-year-old designer. Hot on the heels of his appointment as creative director of Bill Blass came the announcement last week that a big retail developer, NRDC Equity Partners, had bought a majority stake in his company. Change was also in the air at his Spring show, which showed him moving, promisingly, in a more streamlined, less obviously pretty direction.Som was trained as an architect, and his creative wheels were set spinning during a recent trip to Spain, where he visited the Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Frank Gehry's swirling titanium expansion of an ancient sandstone winery in Rioja. Marqués de Riscal was an apt metaphor for today's outing, which sought to put a twist on the traditional.
Som renovated classic American sportswear pieces, updating them with his toolbox of light fabrics (tweed prints, seersuckers, silk-screened dévoré Chantilly lace) and some cleverly mixed and matched textures. "Curvilinear" was one of his catchwords, and while trousers and skirts were cut full and fluid, other pieces hugged the body, like a metallic sequined sheath. "The clothes are cleaner than last season," Som told Style.com. "And there's not a single bow. I'm shocked, myself!"
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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