The fast route to a successful summer Pucci show would seem obvious: Book a flight to Capri. After all, that's the Italian island paradise most closely associated with the print house born exactly 60 years ago. But Matthew Williamson chose a different path: He went way out west to Navajo country, which has become a minor theme of the week. The results were predictably somewhat mixed.

On the plus side were a shift dress and egg-shaped evening coat in matte black sequins with starbursts of color, a boho deluxe belted feather coat in dégradé shades of turquoise, a kaleidoscope-print caftan, and a scarf dress worn with a big amulet necklace. As for the negatives, the worst offender was probably a look comprised of a so-eighties knit shell open to the waistband at the sides and full-leg aquamarine pants. His suede poncho with triangular panels of multicolor snakeskin decorating the neckline fell somewhere in the middle. You could see one of Williamson's It-girl girlfriends pulling it off, and that's sort of telling. Rather than developing a distinct focus, his Pucci collections are starting to look more and more like his signature line.