Rodarte
NEW YORK, September 8, 2007
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
The creative spark for Kate and Laura Mulleavy's fifth collection wasn't the soaring sculpture of Constantin Brancusi, or the pastoral portraiture of Thomas Gainsborough, or any of the other lofty conceits they've conjured in the past. It was a work trip to Japan they took in connection with their recent collaboration with the Gap.Admired for the exquisitely untouchable level of their workmanship—while also being criticized at times for its being so refined as to be unwearable—the sisters are, if not quite coming down to earth, at least expanding their reach. They crafted their own kind of Japonisme, incorporating manga and the films of Yasujiro Ozu. There were kawaii (cute) elements, too, like the almost comically fierce studded shoes and the colored hair extensions. They sent out a lot more separates than they had before (cobwebby sweaters, paired with lean pants, and sack jackets were standouts). And, for the first time, they actually did sexy, with lingerie looks and peekaboo.
The show came to a dramatic end when two young men in suits appeared on the runway and opened a freight elevator to reveal a trio of models in goddess gowns. These were as lovely as any Rodarte has shown, but they weren't news. What was, was the sisters¿ intriguing effort to expand their oeuvre.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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