Rick Owens
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, September 30, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
"I indulged myself so much in furry cavemen last season, I thought it'd be fun to go crisp," said Rick Owens backstage. Dropping Fall's much-praised shaggy shearlings and flowy skirts, he worked instead in sharp, clean skins—eel, snake, or ostrich—and sculptural gazar. Usually Owens likes to cocoon the body in trailing bits of jersey or washed leather, but here he focused on manipulating, almost distorting, the female silhouette—"the grand gesture," he called it.Dresses came with high, funneling necks and bodies that twisted around the torso to create pouchlike pockets, a soft fold at the upper back revealing a flash of female skin. The best came in solid black or white; less successful were the ones in graphic stripes that zigzagged back and forth and around the dresses—there was nowhere for the eye to settle, and all those beautiful drapes went unappreciated. Geometric, almost kimono-esque jackets and podlike vests, worn over tunics and dhoti pants, looked easier to carry off, though it wouldn't have hurt to see a proper pair of trousers (i.e., ones that didn't droop southward toward the knees). This wasn't Owens' strongest effort—it was more of a lark, if we read him right backstage—but then again, no one should begrudge him the right to go out on a limb.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Ohne Titel Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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