Rue du Mail
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 5, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Martine Sitbon's Rue du Mail is on the fast track. Just one season after launching her new label, she opened her first store in Paris this week. And with her second collection, Sitbon put significant distance between herself and her former identity as a designer of moody, romantic things. For Spring, she seemed to be interested in inserting herself somewhere along the techno/hip/sporty continuum, a place where Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni has been known to play.What that entailed was parkas over slipdresses, an accumulation of waistless and weightless shifts, and a closing series of high-shine graphic-print dresses that looked like ponchos with their sides spliced and their seams resewn at sharp angles. Sitbon has always had an eye for color, and the hues came on strong today: orchid, turquoise, orange, chartreuse, peach. And she hasn't abandoned her former inclinations altogether. Some of her dresses were embellished with swirling insets of micropleats at the bodice; others were decorated with matte white sequins around the neckline. But this did feel like a departure from her Fall debut, which leaned more artsy. It will be interesting to see which approach sticks.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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