Ruffian
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have a rarefied vision. They make confectionary-sweet clothes for the good life and seem not to care too much about their hip quotient. With the fashion pendulum swinging back toward the pulled-together, there were many pieces in their Spring collection that looked right. Take, for instance, a one-shoulder cocktail number in hot pink satin-faced organza with a frill running down one side. But there were others, like a ruff-neck coat in that same shocking hue, that will never see the south side of 14th Street.The designers said they were working with twin inspirations: Madame de Pompadour and seventies punk. The former, unsurprisingly, was the more obvious, bursting forth in wallpaper florals and outsize, at times over-the-top, ruffles. You had to look more closely for the hard edges, but they were there—in the form of a jeweled gold belt punctuating an organdy blouse and silk skirt, or a row of buttons that created an interesting rippled effect on the sleeves of a short, nipped-waist, white cotton dress.
Those sound like minor details, but for Wolk and Morais they could be the beginnings of an intriguing new direction—one that might help them cultivate a fan base in the downtown scene.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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