It's a watershed season for Fiona Sinha and Aleksandar Stanic. In what could have been a disaster for a young label, they've moved from a relationship with the giant Italian company Aeffe and become officially independent. Somehow being on their own to work through a product from sketchboard to runway has been good for their souls and more satisfying. "It feels much more personal," says Stanic.

What they brainstormed on, mostly, was airy fabric that keeps its structure—a trend all over the London runways. Case in point: turquoise and orange gazar, draped into halter dresses or subtle body-encasing jackets and skirts. These were offset by rockabilly hair, plus one or two black leather jackets that proved Sinha-Stanic is back, jibing with the rising street style. If they're retracing their steps to regain their creative center of gravity as young designers, that's probably a good thing.