September 24, 2007 Milan
Uniting two disparate themesfifties couture and Japanese samurai, according to the program noteswas a polish that belied the label's still-newcomer status. The fluid silk pants (worn with flowy blouses and swingy vests), floral chine sheaths, and raffia-embroidered miniskirts no doubt set hearts aflutter among the retailers in the audience. These are timely silhouettes that everyone understands, but they were done in a luxurious manner and, even better, were not easily identifiable by brand.
The show's standout piece suggests, however, that Rimondi and Aquilano have an untapped avant-garde streak: Coming, the dress looked like a sculptural, full-blown trapeze; going, it revealed itself to be a body-skimming, provocative sheath. This two-dresses-in-one trick, in more subtle form, became a recurring motifas in, for example, a narrow frock that was solid navy in front and a painterly floral in back. Extra points for difficulty, boys. Well done.