Threeasfour's Gabi, Adi, and Ange now find themselves in a strange position: part of the establishment. The avant-garde downtown designers, who were once said to share a bed with their former fourth, Kai Kühne, are CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists for the first time. They're still playing with the curved seams and ruffled tendrils that are their signatures, but they've polished their act in accordance with their new status. Transparent mesh concentric circles were boldly spliced around the armholes of one blazer. Other wrap jackets came with slashes at the shoulder to reveal flashes of skin. A lilac maillot with a sheer panel arching from one hip to the waist was easily the sexiest of the season so far.

Evening is where these designers' sensibilities really come through. One gown in layers of raspberry, buff, and white organza fit together like a big puzzle. However, Threeasfour's ambition got the better of them with the two dresses that closed the show. These came with swooping streamers of organza rosettes that would make navigating a revolving door or dance floor an insurance risk. But the best pieces—like a pair of slinky, asymmetrically draped aqua silk dresses—exuded a confidence that suggested this threesome is quite content with its new situation.