In a season of toga and tribal, Tao Kurihara offered her own expressive takes on the two.

The lights went down and out streamed five girls, all wearing elegantly sculptural braided headpieces, all in lacy, frilly white cotton tops and bottoms or dresses, wrapped and draped and tucked around their narrow frames. The swaddled silhouette thus established, Kurihara moved on into florals, a sweet butterfly print, and rucksack browns and indigos. Dresses with floppy ruffles down the front, big puffy sleeves, and billowy skirts came to a focal point at the back, which was often bare. Other times, a long-sleeved shrug that barely grazed the shoulder blades topped a button-down blouse tucked into exaggerated bloomers.

After Fall┐s more sportif, commercial outing, this was a welcome return to the personal, imaginative, and romantic roots Kurihara has set down these last four seasons under the Comme des Garçons umbrella. No wonder, then, that she called this very pretty collection My Holy Tribe.