From the first look out, a striking painted cotton poncho, it was obvious that Tess Giberson would be continuing the exploration of exaggerated volumes she began in her Fall collection. But where Fall rolled out in soft cowls of dove gray and charcoal, Spring was one of Giberson's most colorful showings, with marigold and cyan worked in among the tawny beige, steel, and olive tones. Also new were safari looks (a sleeveless trench on Natasha Poly stood out) and "military abstractions" (think long tunic tops with epaulets). Knitted cellophane became ghost layers over and under tanks.

The title of the collection, Giberson's fourth for the cashmere house, was Imprint. And while it was more evolutionary than revolutionary, the designer is quietly—but determinedly—making her mark.