This wasn't the most directional show of the week. No zebra safaris or Halston homages here. But it was certainly classic Bryan Bradley. A colorful coat boasted alligator buttons custom-made in New York; a belted navy cardigan topped a neat white skirt; and, in signature fashion, vibrant color played off confident pattern. If any label on the New York schedule has a bespoke quality, this is it.

The day before the show, the designer had told Style.com that "the new couture" was on his mind: "Not couture as sanctioned by the Chambre Syndicale, but clothes that look like couture but don't act like it."

"Alta Moda in vacanza a Nuova York," the program notes read. And the opening look, a metallic houndstooth coat lined in fuchsia and worn with a matching bow-tied pink sheath, demonstrated exactly what he meant: very polished, very ladylike, but very wearable.

Bradley stayed in his comfort zone—and why not? That zone has been very successful of late. Tuleh has a new president, Marco Cattoretti, who is developing new collaborative relationships (Alexis Bittar provided the jewelry for Spring, and Via Spiga produced a capsule collection of shoes); Bradley is currently creating an exclusive collection for Lord & Taylor, too. "I love my job!" he said.