Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 1, 2007
By Sarah Mower
A squad of girls in print bikinis, angular closed-in visored sunglasses, and soft backpacks set off the Undercover show at a military clip. That was just the sort of strange sensation that Jun Takahashi's audience seeks, but in a flash, it was gone. After that, truth be told, the expectation of witnessing one of Takahashi's off-kilter creative subversions of fashion slowly drained from the room. Not that the show was bad, per se, but it was harder than usual to see what the designer was getting at. The girls that followed dragged out wheelie-bag luggage and toted handbags, wearing little dresses embellished with his familiar dark insignias: embroidered skulls and giant spiders implanted in necklines, and belts made of satin-stitched mouths, each showing a set of sharp, bared teeth.As a brand-confirming exercise, it was sound, and for Undercover's devotees, there'll be plenty to buy—dresses and tops petaled like bird wings, tiny brocade prom dresses, and (if anyone's really going to go for this emerging trend du jour) a satin pajama suit. This time, though, Takahashi's brain-spearing oddness didn't quite hit the target in the way his fashion audience craves.
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Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Danielle Scutt Daryl K Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Heatherette Helmut Lang Hermès -
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Iceberg -
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J. Mendel Jasmine Di Milo Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kris Van Assche -
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L.A.M.B. L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Naoki Takizawa Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Réyes Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Rodnik Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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