Two days after the Deitch Art Parade, Vivienne Tam orchestrated her own Soho happening. A cadre of models dressed in gray Mao Zedong suits formed a phalanx around her new flagship, while inside the store—located on the ground level of the Jean Nouvel/André Balazs project on Mercer Street—guests sipped Champagne and took in her 16-piece collection.

Tam banished Fall's droopy Paul Poiret-inspired silhouette in favor of a leaner line but carried forward her exploration of Chinese paper-cutting methods on fabric. The latter worked to sexy effect on a white and silver-mirror leather dress. Elsewhere, she slashed up an abstract tropical print and appliquéd it back onto textural cocktail dresses, and she hung gold fish-shaped sequins on a simple but fun magenta shift. There was some sophistication here, and it made for an improvement on last season.