Who but Yohji Yamamoto would bring us a thunderstorm on a sunny day? Y-3, backed by Adidas, always has a big production budget, and for Spring that stretched to special-effects weather. Lured to an empty parking garage in the industrial environs of West Chelsea, the audience was surrounded by the ominous boom of thunderclaps and the clatter of heavy rain on the rooftops.

But this wasn't going to be a dark, dystopian show. There was an optimism in the clothes, with strong pops of color among all the black and white. You sensed a message here, somewhere, about the hybrid line's customer: She is a young urbanite cool enough to thrive in a threatening cityscape.

Fall's layers had been lightened up. Windbreakers were worn over deconstructed polo-shirtdresses and (more curiously) an ensemble of tank top, sarong, and leggings. Yohji-isms were present here and there, in wide-legged jeans that recaptured his Chaplin look of a few seasons past, or a black Victorian skirt topped by a sporty nylon jacket. Still, all the athletic urbanisms began to get a bit monotonous after a while. A rockabilly getup, complete with creepers and worn by the perfect model, Freja Beha Erichsen, broke things up for a moment, but it was all too brief.