January 26, 2009 Paris
No outfit can ever be assessed in a single glance: It needs at least a triple or quadruple take for the eye to take it in and the brain to name what's going on. There's the palette alone: nasturtium, peony, ice blue, mushroom; then the prints and the poufs and the flying peplums; the drapes, the stripes, the bows, the bangles.
That would be overload in anyone else's book, but for Lacroix, this show had a relative simplicity. There was calmer daywear in the form of military pantsuits and a return to the short, eighteenth-century pouf-skirted silhouettes of the collections that first made his name in the late eighties. What elevated the whole to a current newsworthy context, though, were the things Lacroix did with jewelry: stacks of mismatched lacquer and crystal cuffs, multiple smotherings of giant glittery necklaces, gilded heart-shaped lockets, and faux fronds of coral. Even a humble woven basket bag became a canvas for a super-dose of diamanté and metallic gold baubles. It was a pleasure to witness and something to be inspired by. Even if only the very few will own a part of this collection, there's an idea in there for every fashion watcher: If you've got jewelry, it's time to bring it out and try piling it on all at once.