June 26, 2008
It's great that Jean-Paul Knott has been given the opportunity to re-enter the fashion arena with his position at Cerruti, but, as of now, the job doesn't seem to have inspired him in any particular way. His collection might best be described as Calvin Kleancontemporary sportswear signatures stripped of personality. The color palette was minimal (primarily gray and white) with outfits composed of the same silhouette-elongating shade, but paradoxically, the tailoring emphasized a degree of uptightness that felt out of sync with the season. The soundtrack was playing "This Charming Man," but the charm wasn't coming through in the hoodies and knits. It's more than likely a case of a collection that is better appreciated in the showroom. Even so, one wonders about Knott's grasp of the easy luxe that traditionally defined the house that Nino Cerruti built.