June 20, 2008
Thirty-six ideas for the future: The name that Ennio Capasa gave his collection was timely to a fault. At a moment when the world is poised for major change, it would be uplifting to think that a fashion collection might offer additional pointers. But when the actual show started, the uplift quickly turned downward. Nothing ultimately wrong with thatCapasa was operating perfectly efficiently within his own frame of reference. Sustainability was one of the points he wanted to make, and he did a great job with recycled fabrics (particularly a silk bamboo and a sheer aluminum). He also wanted to underscore the fact that a modern man would rank global warming alongside looking hot. So he conflated activism and eroticism by layering sheer shirts and outerwear in that recycled aluminum. But Capasa's heart belongs so completely to the dark glamour of his formative years that he just can't help himself when it comes to a sequined lapel or shirt placket. The silvery palette of this collection suggested there is now a little moonlight in his night, but I'm still waiting for at least another 32 ideas.