June 25, 2008 Paris
There's a stringent classicism to Kilgour's custom-made business, and Brandelli managed to translate it to the ready-to-wear runway in an invigorating, forward-looking way. He's always been one to talk about the make of garments. Here, he didn't need to. Some jackets were cut from a mohair so sheer it was easy to see the effortful effortlessness that went into their construction. The color palette was essentially navy and white, a complement to what Brandelli was calling "design minimalism." That might mean a navy jacket with the collar shaved away, leaving only a lapel (lined, like the cuff, in white), or a sheer navy shirt with buttons concealed under a white-trimmed fly front. The signature Kilgour flourish appeared in a stripe of fabric down a trouser leg, or scattered with subtle randomness across jackets and knits. Alcantara synthetic suede made for a must-have one-buttoned blazer, paired with white trousers for a crisp dressiness. There was a purity to the look, which reminded Mouret that Brandelli was once set for the priesthood. Hey, fashion's the new religion, and Carlo will undoubtedly snare a congregation with this collection.