June 20, 2008
If lumpen heaviness was a critique that was leveled at the last Missoni men's collection, then Angela Missoni clearly sucked it up and did what she had to. Last time around, she was talking about finding inspiration in her boyfriend Bruno Ragazzi's tailor-made clothing. This time, he was on hand for the show, just off his boat on Lake Como, tanned, open-necked, the aspirational embodiment of the collection's summery ease. The show notes talked about Alain Delon and Saint-Tropez, but all that really means is male glamour and a bang-up holiday, and both of those notions were communicated in clothes that were sensuous, colorful, and uncomplicated. Think a loose-weave knit cardigan over a floral-print shirt. Think cutoff denims. Hell, think suits with sandals. The palette covered sand, sea, and a little green from beachside plant life. But the most encouraging news was the way in which the weight of Missoni tradition translated into something as light as a woven hooded top, or as subtle as the trim on the lapels and pockets of a gray linen suit.