Armand Basi One
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 17, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Sheerness has become a feature of many London presentations this season, Markus Lupfer's Armand Basi One show included. It's an oddity that may reflect the current obsession among the city's young designers with reliving the early nineties, when visible underwear and nipples were commonplace on the runway. (Odd, because if memory serves, no woman ever wore those particular looks outside a fashion shoot.) Aside from the see-through organza shirts, dresses with sheer windows, and even pants made from a kind of black netting, Lupfer is still fascinated by structured volumes, cutting skirts with jutting peplums and showing a line of banana-legged pants. To give him his due, he has been working those pants since before they appeared on a YSL runway, so maybe this season their moment will finally come.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
