September 05, 2008 New York
The show was in parts wearable (Ottoman-inspired print blouses paired with short, gorgeous sequined lamé dresses) and outrageous (see above). The best way to understand it was to learn that Herchcovitch started his career working alongside his mother among lingerie and lace. Suddenly (forget Freud) his almost Victorian indulgence in chiffon and ruffles fell into place: The designer's heart belongs to Mama, and the clothessome seriously oversize shoulders asidewere not a political statement but an homage to the boudoir. Titled "Army of Love," the collection might not win over the centrist mainstream, but it had a quirky appeal.