Alexandre Herchcovitch
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 6, 2008
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
The fact that there wasn't more than met the eye at Brazilian Alexandre Herchcovitch's show was a good thing. His rather ponderous mission statement, declaring the collection "a focused study of politically troubled, foreign-ruled, war-torn countries," was germane only insomuch as it gave context to the khaki military details that appeared throughout. As for the Vaseline around the models' eyes, that was not meant to be tears, and—no, Herchcovitch explained backstage—the strange "editorial" ruffled crotches that appeared a few times had nothing to do with sex (mind out of the gutter!).The show was in parts wearable (Ottoman-inspired print blouses paired with short, gorgeous sequined lamé dresses) and outrageous (see above). The best way to understand it was to learn that Herchcovitch started his career working alongside his mother among lingerie and lace. Suddenly (forget Freud) his almost Victorian indulgence in chiffon and ruffles fell into place: The designer's heart belongs to Mama, and the clothes—some seriously oversize shoulders aside—were not a political statement but an homage to the boudoir. Titled "Army of Love," the collection might not win over the centrist mainstream, but it had a quirky appeal.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
