"They wanted color, they got color!" Alexander Wang declared a few days before his show. After a Fall collection done almost entirely in black, the new palette took shape during a trip to Miami, home not just of those amazing tropical Art Deco pastels but also of the so-bad-it's-good eighties Deco-redux tackiness of Miami Vice.

A determination to move forward is indispensable to a young designer at a crossroads, and Wang is gaining momentum with his new shoe collection and a diffusion line of T-shirts called T by Alexander Wang. The imaginary muse for his Spring show, he said, was a sexy, devil-may-care sort who would play basketball in a dress; hence the mesh insert patterned like beads of sweat on a draped jersey goddess number. But even with the infusion of brighter, more body-conscious looks, Wang's familiar grunge girl was still very present here—her toughness heightened by pierced and fringed black leather platform sandals.

There was an athletic edge to the proceedings, and—with the exception of cropped muscle tees and Swarovski-laden sweatpants—it worked. Several of the sporty pieces (especially the silk cargo pants, a sleek anorak, and fringed sweatshirts) will be winners with the kind of go-getter who likes to cap off an all-night party with a pickup game at the West 4th Street courts.