Basso & Brooke
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 17, 2008
By Tim Blanks
Turning Japanese did Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke a world of favors. Between Hokusai past and Blade Runner future, Japan offered the master printmakers so much inspiration all they had to do was keep it simple and let the prints shine. And that—mercifully—is essentially what they did. From the moment Vlada Roslyakova hit the runway in matching top and leggings with a sculpted obi belt anchoring the look, the eye was dazzled by furious collages of pattern, some of them beaded, or over-embroidered, or crystallized by Swarovski for added eye appeal. Japan also provided the origamilike pleating and folding effects that drew simple jersey shift shapes in at the waist or puckered the fabric of a sheer blouse so it looked like a huge ruffle round the neck. Such effects may sound tricksy, but in fact they served their purpose in enhancing those gorgeous prints. Attention must also be paid to Raouda Assaf's shoes (the heels artfully carved like Japanese ivory) and Stephen Jones' headpieces.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
