Blumarine
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 23, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
The first dress, a nude draped halter with subtle accents of yellow at the ruffled neckline, suggested we might be in for a new Blumarine—if not minimal (come on, who are we kidding?) then at least more restrained. But Anna Molinari is a designer who never met a sequin she didn't like, and after that sexy, almost spare warmup, it was back to the embellishments that she knows best. A lush floral watercolor print alternately brightened up a belted dress; high-waisted, tapering pants; and a floor-length gown with a hip-high slit. Beads and, yes, sequins made multiple appearances—on her familiar cardigans, at the necklines of tanks and the waistbands of pants, and in a dégradé effect on a va-va-voom cocktail number. They also showed up in more girlish, floral patterns on a group of blush-colored dresses.The draped tulle goddess minidresses and gowns were a welcome reprieve from all that glitter—they'll play with the Hollywood starlet set. Molinari is clearly quite comfortable with her formula, but it'd be nice to see her push a little further into new territory.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
