September 27, 2008
Bruno Pieters dedicated his collection to Pierre Cardin, but beyond the fact that nearly every fabric had a subtle shine, there was nothing overtly space-age about the clothes. Over the last couple of seasons, the Belgian designer has established a certain precise tailoring—narrow and sharp as a razor blade—as his signature. For Spring, he applied Cardin's stark black-and-white palette and even more rigorous sense of structure to his already severe approach. Shoulders (which are quickly shaping up to be a Paris hot zone) were squared, creating, in effect, boxy cap sleeves on trim cropped jackets worn with slim above-the-knee skirts, as well as on short dresses with V necklines cut almost down to the waist. The same geometric angles made an appearance on the front of a skirt, too, but they looked just as tricky here as they did anywhere else. Pieters was at his best working instead with curves, close to the body, as he did with one zip-front white vest and skirt that were tiny and sexy.