September 13, 2008 London
Those extremes were more obvious than ever here, where a crinoline floated over suspendered black thigh-highs, or silky fairy-tale layers were anchored by a tiny black leather biker jacket. The leathers highlighted a fifties "bad girl" subtext: a denim jacket with biker insignia, skinny jeans with a big red "Charles" appliquéd across the butt. Then there were the shoes, towering cork platforms rather than the usual ballet pumps. They added the element of unease to which Anastase is partial ("a little nightmare," he calls it). His approach to what it feels like for a girl is pretty close to Rei Kawakubo's. And by the way, that was Adrian Joffe, Mr. Comme des Garçons himself, in the front row.