September 11, 2008 New York
Rucci applied his fresh notions throughoutfirst to his classics, lightening up the arcing seams of sculptural suits and dresses with horsehair insets, and then pushing into new territory with geometric insets of wool on sheer tulle. The effect was both modern and, yes, kind of sexy. Rucci's Resort collection, shown in June, included some beautiful dresses that would appeal to the junior set. There were more here, including polished white shirtdresses, coquettishly winking bits of skin through sliced seams. A standout black sequin jacket and skinny, floor-length skirt had a dark, louche appeal, while a fuchsia party dress with a back of riblike cutouts almost had the sci-fi edge of McQueen. These numberseach a nice counterpoint to the concept-laden, intellectual heft that gets the likes of Stewart and Collins clappingmay help Rucci broaden his audience.