Costume National
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 1, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Backstage, Ennio Capasa said he found a starting point for his Spring show in conceptual architecture: "The kind of buildings that don't get built because there's no technology for them yet." While that doesn't exactly sound like an auspicious beginning, there was nothing overly intellectual about the collection. In fact, it was fairly standard Costume National fare.But this time, the body-conscious dresses and sharply cut suits with pushed-up sleeves and cropped pants were cut in crinkly, light-reflecting materials and built up around the shoulders for a slightly sci-fi look. The vest-jacket that's been turning up everywhere since Stefano Pilati showed one a year ago also made an appearance here.
Softening things up were fluid dresses airbrushed in black and white to evoke the reflection of the sky on buildings. The architecture motif continued into the accessories: Platform sandals with open metal heels evoked steel girders, and silver necklaces were made of interlocking 3-D rectangles. As far as visions of the future go, it wasn't earth-shattering, but it'll keep Capasa's fans in his clothes.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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