September 06, 2008
This show is always an event, involving props (usually too many) and "street" casting. Best of the runway-novice bunch this season were Olympic swimmer Dara Torres and her toddler daughter, Tessa, and clubland legend Kenny Kenny, who made a convincing Dietrich. Broadly inspired by the "creativity of the twenties," Nolan admirably avoided the costume trap (though it must be said that one of the best looks, a floral net blouson top, was the most authentically Jazz Age, as well as Daisy Buchanan-at-a-garden-party pretty). Nolan was also thinking a lot about travelergo the passports and maps carried by the modelsand unfortunately let his focus wander a bit. He missed the boat with an out-of-character mod ensemble and some experiments with neon, but a pleat-back shift and a classic mariner top worn with cropped linen palazzo pants were just the ticket.