In the four seasons she's been showing on the Milan runways, Mina Lee's Derercuny has undergone a metamorphosis, shifting from smart tailoring with subtle, memorable details to full-on girly mode. The collection keeps skewing younger and younger. For Spring, thinking one part hippie, another part glam, she laid the embellishments on thick: There were mirrored sequins on chiffon waistcoats and white feathers peeking from beneath the hem of a tank dress. A pair of stretchy cream leather pants worn with a pale, floaty floral-print chiffon top was a key look; it's what a prep-schooler might wear to pose as a rock chick.

Apparently Lee's label is a favorite among retailers, but there wasn't a U.S. department store bigwig in sight at her 9 p.m. show. The buyers must view the collection in the showroom, which might not be a bad place for the rest of us to take it in, too. The clothes are sweet and pretty, but they're not making news.