D&G
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 22, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
It was anchors away at D&G, where messieurs Dolce and Gabbana took a dip in the azure waters of the French Riviera. Make that a long soak. They never do anything halfway, and this collection was no exception, from the first retro navy-striped maillot with a red anchor on the chest to the parade of dresses in pleated gold lamé and chiffon printed with nautical flags and sailor knots. Over the top? Well, yes, but there was plenty in between that will play on dry land, including tailored blazers, high-waisted sailor pants, a "gold-plated reptile" trenchcoat, and thick, metallic-shot hand-woven knits, the best of which was a crewneck sweater worn with balloon shorts.And because the Côte d'Azur was a stomping ground for Coco Chanel, who kept an iris-strewn holiday villa in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, the Chanel-isms abounded: little red-and-white-checked and sequined bouclé suits, but with shorts not skirts; a long, striped cardigan cum beach cover-up; twenties-feeling high-hemmed shifts; and a super-wide-brimmed sun hat straight out of a photograph of Mademoiselle herself. Fishnets, flag-printed wedge sandals, patent bags, and knit swim caps numbered among the other accessories. It was a kick from beginning to end, which is, after all, what Saint-Tropez fun in the sun is all about.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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