Dolce & Gabbana
MILAN, September 25, 2008
By Sarah Mower
When it comes to throwing a glossy, high-spec runway performance, there's no one left in Milan who does it with quite the bravura of Dolce e Gabbana. They have their devices, of course, and they spell them out up front, leaving nothing in doubt: A preshow video named the collection "Pigiama Barocco." That meant classic gentlemen's silk pajamas, spotted or striped, with lots of bejeweling in the models' hair and on brooches, for starters. Big poufy skirts came into it, too, and tiered-lace cardigans, and then gilded brocades that took a sideways segue into some of those flat, exaggerated geometric constructions (big Minnie Mouse-ear sleeves, in this case) that are popping up all over.Busy as this sounds, there was focus. At a point where most handbag displays have become lackluster, Dolce and Gabbana's literally shone, loaded with sequined embroideries and gold chains (a smart proposition for toting a purse as a piece of jewelry). For evening, the designers also nailed a couple more rising trends: mini-crinis in bouncing semi-sheer skirts, and sumptuously encrusted paillette embroideries. Finale-wise, it was all-out with romantic ball skirts studded with roses. In other words, not a whiff of economic anxiety was detectable within these four walls, and that in itself was curiously cheering.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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