Doo.Ri
NEW YORK, September 10, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Coming off a collection heavy on black and dense mohair knits, Doo-Ri Chung let the light in for Spring. Citing Bruce Nauman's False Silence installation as inspiration, she added decorative fluorescent piping to short dresses; the tubes hugged the torso, suggesting hourglass curves. Chung's electric color palette also took cues from the neon artist: A halter dress with ruching on the bodice came in an arresting neon pink, there were a pair of dresses in a deep emerald green, and a silk tie-front blouse came in brilliant navy.Another way the collection felt light? Last season it seemed as if Chung had said good-bye for good to jersey, the fabric with which she made her name. But she brought it back today, and in its absence she had clearly been doing some thinking about novel ways to use it. Exhibit one: In jersey, the pants of the season—high-waisted, roomy through the hips and upper thighs, and tapering to the ankle—looked fresh and new. Likewise, Chung reinvented that up-from-the-streets item, the boyish vest, by showing it in a feminine bias drape. And as for her jersey dresses, she beat the been-there-done-that rap by playing with macramé overlays. Chung's steady-as-she-goes style is paying off.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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