Eley Kishimoto

LONDON, September 16, 2008
By Tim Blanks
There's always been something playful about Eley Kishimoto, so a soundtrack of frisky kids made a perfect intro to a collection the designers called "Little Devils." They traded on the notion with Peter Pan collars, smock tops, and princess coats, but Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto clearly have a grander design because they quickly moved on to the kind of outfits the parents of little devils might wear at their parties in the 'burbs. The Eley Kishimoto DNA was clearest in things like the floral sundress with matching stockings or a navy shirtdress with a pintucked waist, pieces that suggested innocence. But there was trouble once the middle part of the show—a group of oddly proportioned outfits in glazed raffia, or a sequined aboriginal lizard print—crossed over into attempts at worldliness. The designers pulled it back together at the end with swingy Art Deco chiffons in red, white, and blue—and the finale boasted a crash helmet in EK's signature zigzag that was a salutary reminder of their graphic genius.

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