Erdem
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2008
By Sarah Mower
"I just wanted something soft and hyper-romantic, easy but a bit surreal at the same time," said Erdem Moralioglu backstage. "I've got all these images of seventies theater productions of A Midsummer Night's Dream, and Eton boys wearing flowers in their boaters."Whatever inspired him to push for all-out prettiness, and design a stunning lineup of dresses in French lace and dappled pastel-tinted watercolors of anemones and irises, it's clear things are working more brilliantly for Erdem every season. Take a tiered ice-blue lace Edwardiana dress with an orange ribbon clashingly threaded through it, or a sugar-pink high-necked organdy number with a 3-D smothering of "a hundred hydrangea petals in the bodice." The clothes, which also included a delicately washed-out pale blue ghost of toile de Jouy and almost sculptural zones of richly encrusted jeweled and frilled embroideries on sleeves and in deep hemlines, were breathtaking in movement. They made for a spellbinding show by an exceptional talent whose self-taught standards of workmanship almost put his creations on an equal footing with some of the things seen in haute couture.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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