Fendi

MILAN, September 25, 2008
By Sarah Mower
Exactly who started this season's trends for transparency, pale color, and bouncy crinolined skirts, we may never know. All that's certain is that it takes a practiced eye to handle all three of them at once—but if anyone can get away with it, it's Karl Lagerfeld. On the Fendi runway, he made bell-shaped dresses—with their accompanying three levels of sheer fabric in the skirt—look molded in a graphic way, rather than ingenue-cute or dubiously sleazy (pitfalls that have been encountered by others who've gone the way of see-through).

With that, Lagerfeld established a modernist, cinch-waisted silhouette, further de-cloyed by up-sprouting quiffs, that ran throughout the collection—and he cleverly dispensed broderie anglaise, tablecloth lace, and laser cutouts as he went along. It made enough of a statement to carry the show, but, as always, the real news-making content was the shape of the Fendi bags. This season, it's the "kangaroo pouch"—vaguely similar to the Hermès Birkin, but with one side draped open.

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