Salvatore Ferragamo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, September 23, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Cristina Ortiz took a second stab at establishing a new identity for Salvatore Ferragamo today. Unfortunately, it didn't fare much better than her bumpy first effort. You could see that she was trying to manipulate elements of the house's accessories into the clothing: D-ring closures on suits, leather shoulder straps complete with buckles for dresses. She played a bit with classics such as the trench and the crisp men's shirt as well, turning the former into a strapless dress and the latter into a bustier with a wide leather belt below the bust. As ideas they were interesting, but in execution they looked tricky. As for her eveningwear, mostly plissé halter dresses with deep bunches of fabric at the waist and hips, the fit was not only unflattering but often poor; nipple slippage is one thing on the runway, quite another in real life.It's not clear whom Ortiz is targeting with these clothes. They're far too racy for Ferragamo's classic customer, and yet not on-trend enough to woo new ones. If there was a glimmer of hope to be found, it was in her suits. There's still too much going on around the waist—and no one wants to add bulk there—but color choices like a pale lilac or the soft drape of a lapel betray an appreciation of the feminine that seems otherwise curiously lacking in this female designer.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
