September 13, 2008 London
Black has clearly mastered the art of dressing Milan's haute bourgeoisie. That is, after all, the city where the former Ferragamo designer found his fortune. But while there's no faulting his level of craftsmanship, there was something stiff about the clothes, even with a white cotton ruffle on a jacket pocket (well, that was fussy, not stiff), or chiffon ruffles cascading round the dip of a blouse's back. That shirt was paired with a pencil skirt, a silhouette that cropped up a few times. So did doubled gowns, where a sail of fabric floated over a body-hugging column. At least the movement suggested whitecaps whipping in the wind. In the context of Hebridean inspiration (rope coiled on old fishing boats, mercury seas, sculptural rock stacksBlack can certainly turn a phrase), the gold sequin disco jacket was a discord, but it was the liveliest thing on the catwalk.