Haider Ackermann
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, October 2, 2008
By Nicole Phelps
Haider Ackermann is one of those Paris designers who perpetually operates just under the radar. He's been around for at least half a decade, but for those who haven't seen one of his collections in almost as long, here's a message: Take a new look. Ackermann has a soigné way with the simplest of materials. He can drape humble cotton jersey into a twenty-first-century Vionnet, and what he does with leather could make even Rick Owens envious.Second-skin leather jackets with the sleeves rolled up way past the elbows formed the basis of his collection; they unzipped in sinuous diagonals across the torso and clung to the models' every curve. Satin dresses were similarly cut in spirals, their zippers winking open at the waist or the hips to flash a bit of skin. The highlight of the show was a pair of diaphanous silk dresses shading from black to violet to midnight-blue like a stormy night sky. If there's a criticism to be made it's that Ackermann still hasn't found a way to replicate the swirling sexiness of his jackets and dresses in pants form, but when everything else looks this beautiful, that can be forgiven.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
