"A coming together of nature and the city," is how Nicole Colovos described the work she and her husband, Michael, did at Helmut Lang this season. Basically, it was a continuation of their exploration of organic shapes for Fall, only this time it was—in Colovos' words—"juxtaposed with architectural elements."

Lang staples like sleek jackets were given a tuxedo cut and left sleeveless; trousers were slouchy in draped twill or silk, mostly with narrow cuffs. Oversize tees and tank dresses had moody black-and-white prints of marble, pumice stone, and—in a first collaboration for the brand—macabre spider designs by the British artist Jessica Albarn. One arresting material was a paper-thin leather with cobweb burnout used for jackets and dresses. This was a cohesive collection with enough casual cool to appeal to those who loved Lang back in the day and those who are just beginning to turn their eyes toward it since the brand's relaunch two years ago.