It was the eighties all over again at Iceberg—the big-shoulder, big-attitude eighties. There was a little bit of Azzedine Alaïa in a black bra top with crisscross straps and a lean, curve-loving skirt with scuba seaming. And you could see shades of Norma Kamali in a short-sleeved blazer or a pair of ruched leggings worn with a cropped, kimono-sleeved jacket.

Breaking up the black, beige, and wine-red palette (and the sexy, take-no-prisoners vibe) were a couple of polka-dot knit dresses and a quirky print that looked like Jeff Koons' Balloon Flower and Balloon Dog sculptures. The magenta-and-blue print showed up on one of the round-shouldered jackets, a fitted sheath with an asymmetrically wrapped bodice, and a strapless dress with a fluttery hem. Sure, the eighties are big this season, but in a collection that otherwise inspired a serious case of déjà vu, the balloon print, at last, was something we'd never seen before.