Issa
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, September 18, 2008
By Tim Blanks
The front row wedged tight with actresses, heiresses, princesses, and the Dellal women immediately had the antennae twitching. What has Daniella Helayel been doing to snare such a constituency? One thing was immediately obvious: She hasn't been making too many demands on them. The Issa show offered a random grab bag of easy, fluid shapes in light, floating fabrics. The parade of girlishly sweet white dresses at the finale were Helayel's "lucky" dresses—her best-sellers—and they looked prepped for partying on Copacabana come New Year's Eve. That's what Issa is all about—feel-good clothes for the live-fast set.A broderie anglaise smock top, a royal-blue peasant dress, or a poufy-sleeved chiffon gown with an elasticated neckline somehow suggested something Zorro's gal pal might wear. Issa's roots are, after all, Latin. But Helayel also laid on an international gloss: a white halter-neck jumpsuit, a silver silk skirt with a banded knit top in the same shade. And was that the skort beloved of Marc Jacobs? As Helayel made her way down the runway at the show's end, the Issalites cheered. The secret of her success may simply be that she lives their life, knows their needs—and that's a business right there.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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