September 08, 2008
The work of Argentine artist Lucio Fontana was the jumping-off point for Jeremy Laing's Spring collection. Laing referenced Fontana's monochrome, slashed canvasses by taking the knife (OK, shears) to his clothes, creating precise, controlled slits and slices in dresses and shells. The slits served a functional purpose in one charmeuse tube dress, expanding as the wearer moved so she wouldn't be hobbled as she walked. This dress, like others, was layered with a wispy chiffon "tank" that provided, at best, an unusual cobweb effect. At worst, it looked a little witchy (Edward Scissorhands also came to mind). On their own the dresses were quite pretty, especially those subtly studded with Swarovski crystals; most of the chiffon pieces were layered separates. Several day looks with a clean, geometric appealincluding a cropped nylon top with a low, rounded back that managed to look both sporty and conceptualwere proof that, all in all, Laing's shape-based construction served him well.