John Galliano
PARIS, October 4, 2008
By Sarah Mower
James Gillray and the Queen Mum. You had to be a bit of a British art-history nerd to get the references John Galliano was dispensing backstage to mostly blank looks from fashion correspondents. But thank goodness for Stephen Jones' erudition on historical headgear—and Google backup—because here we are at the source: outrageous Regency cartoons of silly fashions from the Napoleonic war era, giant plumed military helmets, overblown mob-caps, and indecently transparent dresses. Sorted. (Oh, apart from the Queen Mummery, which equals the sweet pea florals, of course.)But did one actually need to know this to understand the collection? Hardly, because as accomplished as the backstage history boys may be, this was a show of tried-and-trusted Galliano classics put out at a moment when he's essentially brought his runway antics to a stop. What's walking out now are simplified, understandable pieces: parka-derived daywear with vestiges of military frogging in tape; little drapey jersey dresses; fragile rosette-sleeved cardigans; tiny, flippy ruffled floral skirts.
In one way, that challenges the idea that a fashion show has to be newsy to be worthwhile—though it's a harder case to make when a resentful, exhausted audience is expected to travel an hour on a cold Saturday night to an insalubrious quarter of Paris to view it. To justify this, Galliano needed to pull something special out of his hat. He did, eventually, in an evening section in which his fragile, sheer, spangled, romantically tinted and flower-printed dresses briefly settled onlookers into a serene state of appreciation. If there are parties to go to next season, these are the kinds of dresses many girls might dream of wearing to them. With an underslip, of course.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
I
Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
