Limi's showroom was apparently filled with color and her runway backdrop was her favorite shade of pink, but at the last minute, she'd decided to focus her show on black and white, the signature combination of Japan's fashion avant-garde. That's her heritage, after all, and it was no big surprise that she went on to deliver the oversize proportions, asymmetry, and masculine/feminine interplay that you expect in the work of her dad, Yohji. But if the editing of color suggested some shrinkage of the sense of wicked fun that separates Limi from her forebears, that wasn't how things turned out. For one thing, this was a show whose soundtrack married poignant piano and shrieking Stooges.

Maybe that was the music the models were listening to on their Princess Leia headphones. One outfit was composed of shades of lilac; another, with a swingy red peasant skirt, suggested what might have been. Otherwise, Limi pushed the monochrome oversize to extremes with a long white shirt and an equally long skinny tie, or a jacket that was elongated to the knees, or suspendered clown-sized pants. But she also showed a little black dress with a portrait neckline, and a black suit (three-quarter sleeve jacket, pencil skirt) that was a girlier version of the twisted-but-dressy stuff her father excels at. A tiered dress in what looked like concertina-pleated midnight blue organza was positively glamorous. Then Limi hung the same idea off skinhead-thin suspenders. Just the kind of thing that works with a modern girl's tattoos.