L'Wren Scott
NEW YORK, September 12, 2008
By Meenal Mistry
The gusts of wind coming off the Hudson and sweeping straight down 21st Street to the door of the Gagosian Gallery set a fitting scene for L'Wren Scott's Spring collection, named "Zephyr," after the Greek god of wind. "There was a windstorm when I was designing," Scott explained inside the gallery. She set herself a specific goal this time: injecting billowing movement into her strict, rake-slim signature silhouettes of skinny jeans; sharp Victorian-inflected jackets; and lean, curve-gripping dresses. That objective was reflected in this almost exclusively black and white collection's vaguely avian theme: tail-feather pleats on fitted jackets, featherlike tufts atop a pinstriped chiffon blouse, or fat white feathers jutting from the sleeves and neck of a corseted cream dress. Siren gowns had both wispy marabou trim and the gentle swish of a fishtail hem. A dramatic marabou cape looked as if it might just take flight.The collection had Scott's typical rock 'n' roll elegance, complete with dolly-bird hair and tilted lace fedoras, the latter a collaboration with Stephen Jones. The stylist-turned-designer is now in her fifth season, and her message rings ever more confidently and clearly, as evidenced by numbers like a romantic black plissé dress with white lace shoulders and an almost whimsical "globule" lace shift.
To finish, there was a trio of white evening looks, though Scott—known for advocating 24/7 glamour—wouldn't categorize them as bridal. "They're just dresses to wear out," she said. After a final model lineup, the designer raised a glass of Champagne to the assembled: Ellen Barkin, Sarah Jessica Parker, Rachel Feinstein Currin and John Currin, and Scott's beau, Mick Jagger, as well as those members of the working press lucky enough to snag a ticket. Parker gave her a giggly, girly hug. Mick's verdict: "I loved it." Enough said.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
