Luca Luca
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, September 8, 2008
By Alison Baenen
For his first complete collection at the helm of Luca Luca, Raul Melgoza looked more to the future—sometimes in an eighties Blade Runner kind of way—than the past, which meant fewer easily wearable pieces than the Luca customer (Ivana Trump, Tinsley Mortimer, et al.) might be used to. Melgoza clearly wants to push the label in a more sportswear-driven direction. That, coupled with the designer's architectural bent, resulted in a sculpted silhouette in a clean, practically all-white palette. In fact, there was nary a print nor embellishment in sight. Vents, panels, and slits—notably, in a lovely liquid-silver gown at the show's end—added interest to basic shapes. A few pretty lunch-to-cocktail dresses had the illusion of being more than one piece, and appeared in places to float off the body. Occasionally, though, Melgoza pushed things too far: Strange, space-age pod shoes gave the girls some trouble—Hye Park went ahead and took hers off—and a few looks fell on the wrong end of the sci-fi spectrum.
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Spring 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Eley Kishimoto Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi Issa -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Sabyasachi Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows Sue Stemp -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Vera Wang Lavender Label Veronique Branquinho Versace Victoria Beckham Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood Vivienne Westwood Red Label VPL -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
